Where- Lake Khovsgol, Mongolia, Central Asia

When- August 2017

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Known as the “Blue Pearl of Mongolia,” Lake Khovsgol (Хөвсгөл нуур or Lake Hovsgol) is one of the seventeen Ancient Lakes of the world, at more than 2 million years old.

It is a well-known summer spot for Mongolian and tourists alike, with beautiful crystal water, lakeside ger camps (traditional felt tent) and ever-present yaks and horses lazing around the water’s edge.

This lake is huge, it is 262 metres (860 feet) deep and 136 kilometers (85 miles) long, located near the Russian border in Northern Mongolia. This rare place is on the transition zone between the Central Asian steppe and the Great Siberian Taiga forest, where you can see wildlife and scenery like nowhere else in the world.

Hiking Adventure

“Only idiots get lost,” I said, as I followed my sisters over the fence of mismatched logs. We moved into the forest, where humid air replaced the smell of wood-smoke from the camp. We had left behind the still lake and our cosy ger to explore the unfamiliar Siberian forest.

We stayed at the Nature’s Door Camp, a beautiful spot on the south-western end of the lake. A bonus was all the meals were provided and a hot breakfast was just what we needed to get started.

“You can go over the fence and walk maybe ten minutes to find a path,” the helpful lady from breakfast explained after we asked her how to get up to the hills behind the camp.

So we had a good enough starting point. Our plan was to find the path and follow it towards the hills, then cut into the forest and find our own way up one peak that we could see in the distance. It looked like a few hour’s walk.

The morning was still and overcast and the smell of distant rain lingered in the air. We crossed into the trees. It was like walking into a real enchanted forest. Huge pines and Siberian larch rose into the sky. On the ground the gaps between them were wide and filled with sparse underbrush, a chipmunk nibbled on his breakfast, squirrels raced between logs and up trees.

This was a world away from the Gobi Desert where we had been the week before, but it was just as alien and fascinating. The air was filled with unfamiliar bird song, as the forest floor cushioned our steps with beds of pine needles and moss.

Though it was cool, we quickly warmed up as we wound our way through trees, over logs and past a few gers tucked away with horses outside patiently waiting. After much longer than ten minutes (due to us examining every new animal, mushroom or flower we came across), we found a path which actually turned out to be a dirt road.

We followed it for a while. Eventually it changed to grass and shrunk to horse sized path. We turned off to the left, closer to the hills and kept a leisurely pace, enjoying the flat part of the trail. We came across a family of yaks, some interesting looking spiders and lots of flowers.

As we ventured further from the lake, the widely spaced trees turned into a thicker dense mass. We went deeper into the forest, heading uphill, trying to stay in line with the closest ridge. The forest got darker as the trees overhead blocked out the light and with it, our view of the hills.

We passed an old tree covered in khadag, the ceremonial white and blue silk scarfs. White scarfs represents purity. Blue is symbolic of the open sky and the sky spirit. It is also a Buddhist ceremonial scarf, where, in modern times in Mongolia, the lines blur between Buddhism and traditional Shamanism. It is common to come across trees or Ovoo wrapped in khadag all over Mongolia, even in the most remote deserts or mountains.

We walked uphill for more than an hour, working our way through the clearest path we could find, as the ground became steeper and steeper.

The magic of the forest had taken on a darker feel as trees closed in. I struggled to lift my feet over logs and slipped on steep patches. I began imaging the eyes of wolves and bears that could be watching us. In Mongolia it is good luck to see a wolf. However, I wasn’t keen to see one that close up. We couldn’t see a way up to the ridge.

We walked across the slope to try to find an easier way. Our feet were heavy, and we were out of breath. We stopped. Lake Khovsgol is high up, 1,645m (5397ft) above sea level to be exact. Sometimes you forget that, but the altitude can affect your fitness and make things much harder.

We ate the snacks we had bought from UB: apples, cucumber, crackers and KitKats. Our legs were all scratched up from wrestling our way through the forest.

We recovered some energy and tried to work out where we were. We found that we all had different ideas of where the ridge was, and had no idea how close we were, or how far up the massive hill we had actually made it.

We were lost.

It didn’t look like we would get our view of the lake. We decided to try find our way back to camp rather than attempt to go higher up. We were not sure how far east we had gone so we didn’t know if we had passed the road or not. We decided to go straight down and head for the lake. At least walking straight we would get out. We battled our way back through the forest until we got to the flat again.

Colourful flowers and unusual plants greeted us as we emerged to a less claustrophobic forest.

It was around eleven am and the sun had come out in full. The dark forest gave way to a bright green meadow. The trees were vibrant in the cheerful sky.

Happy to be out of the dark forest, we made our way in the direction of the lake. Still no sign of the path. Though we had just eaten all our snacks, we were still hungry and excited at the prospect of getting back in time for lunch, one pm. That was our goal.

We came out of another set of trees into the most brilliant meadow yet. It was a carpet of purple flowers so pretty it didn’t seem like real life. It was easy to imagine we stepped into a Disney movie, I half expected some talking deer to come greet us.

“That’s the road!” Rosie said, spotting what we had been searching for. We had somehow appeared right next to the it.

Our spirits picked up a lot knowing we could make it back. We stopped in the meadow to enjoy the flowers and take photos.

We hadn’t been there long when a loud rumbling sound came from the forest. It sounded like something big racing towards us, getting louder and louder. We jumped up and moved from the center of the meadow, closer to the trees.

“What the hell is that?” Lucy said. I had no idea. It got louder still, thundering footsteps coming right towards us, like something was about to explode out of the trees.

Worried looks passed between us but we didn’t speak as we waited for whatever was coming. The force emerged.

A herd of horses burst out of the trees. They ran straight across the meadow as a mass of bodies, breathing and pressing against one another. It happened so fast it was disorienting.

They were a mix of colours and sizes. A few horses straggled at the back, snorting to each other and blowing air out their nostrils loudly. The energy of the forest was strong. In a flash, these creatures crossed by us and disappeared into the trees on the other side like ghosts. It felt like we had witnessed a flash of a dream, something mystical.

With a new sense of excitement, we were ready to go on our way again. The sun was bright and we found the road. The horses had been a sign of good luck, perhaps even spirits of the forest.

A huge thunderstorm looming in the distance couldn’t even get us down, though it made us walk faster.

We stepped from the trees, where the bright sunlight shone over the water and the forest road met the lake road. The thunderstorm was nearly overhead. A man dressed in a deel (traditional Mongolian clothing) trotted by on a horse, clutching a bottle of vodka and swaying in his saddle.

We were back.

A ten-minute walk along the lake front, past some horses and meandering yaks, and we found our camp with five minutes to spare before lunch. The heavens released as we tucked into the best spaghetti bolognese of our lives. Just another morning where things don’t go as planned in Mongolia, but you can always be sure to find an adventure.

Advice and tips for your trip to Lake Khovsgol

Getting there

Flying

It is easiest to fly there. During summer you can fly from Ulaanbaatar to Moron, which is a 1.5 hr flight. In the past I have always flown with Hunnu Air. The drive is around 2 hr 15 min from Moron to Khatgal.

Driving

The drive from Ulaanbaatar to Khatgal is 808km, which will take over 12 hr. Rent a car, or rent a car with a driver if you are keen for a lengthy road trip.

2. Where to Stay

Natures Door Camp
This is where we stayed and I highly recommend this camp. It has wonderful service and staff that will look after you. It is an eco friendly camp with pretty decent food and drinks.
Tel: +976 99080416; +976 98380004 | E-mail: naturesdoor@magicnet.mn
Ashihai Resort
A well recommended camp. It has a lovely big lodge and spacious gers. They will even arrange bonfires and mini folk concerts for you.
Email: info@ashihai.mn
Toilogt Camp- Located further north still on the western side. Toilogt is a long running Tourist camp that is very popular. You can stay in a ger, wooden cabin, or teepee.
Mobile: +976-99092273 | Email: info@hovsgoltravel.com

3. How to get around

I messaged Nature’s Door in advance and they arranged a car to pick us up from the airport and take us to the camp.
There were also options at the camp for drivers to take you around. We did this when we wanted to visit the Reindeer herders camp. Just tell them the day before, or that morning where you want to go and they will find someone to drive you.

4. Things to do at Lake khovsgol

Explore- My favourite thing to do is wander around the lake. Check out the small shops, watch the yaks drinking and horses wandering past. Go to the local town of Khatgal and see what the local life is like.
Stay in a ger- There is something special about staying in a ger by the lake. Even in summer it gets cold at night and staying in a ger is so cosy. It feels like you are camping, but with a bit of luxury.
Hiking- You can find hiking trails or just wander into the forest. Climbing some of wildflower covered hills is a great way to get a view of Lake Khovsgol and see just how big it is.
Naadam Celebration at Khatgal- If you are there during Naadam check out the local celebrations and join in the fun. Lake activities- Most camps will offer kayaking, boat trips and there is even a dive center if you want to discover the depths of the lake.
Visit the reindeer people- Ask your camp to organise a trip to visit the local reindeer herders.
Fishing- Most camps will rent basic fishing equipment. Sit with a beer by the lake and try your luck!
Horse riding- There are horses everywhere. Make sure your horse guide gives you helmets.

5. Bonus tips

Bring snacks from Ulaanbaatar, particularly anything fresh you might want like fruit or veges.
For drinks, you can buy cheap beer and vodka in the small shops at the Lake.
Be prepared to chill out- Lake Khovsgol is a pretty leisurely place.
Make sure you have travel insurance before going to Mongolia-