Something you might not know about Istanbul, Turkey, is that this captivating city is actually run by cats. Amongst the ancient palaces, grand mosques and colourful bazaars, you are always under the watchful eye of a cat.

Cats might not be the first thing you think of when you are planning a trip to Istanbul, but they are a prominent feature on every street and every famous tourist destination.

They are on curled up on shop doorsteps, as shoppers gingerly step around them. They’re strutting around the edges of every street, nibbling away at the many offerings of free cat food. You’ll spot them tucked under bushes in every garden and living like kings in their mini palaces inside the malls.

They’ll be lounging atop plush cushions and colourful Turkish carpets in shops, and sitting next to you in a cafe as you sip your rich Turkish coffee and nibble on sweet desserts.

Istanbul is a cat lover’s paradise.

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So, who looks after all these cats?

It is clear that the people of Istanbul care very much for their cats. As communities, the people look after street cats in their area. This makes for very friendly and well fed cats. These free-range kitties are given shelters for winter and are taken to the vet when they need medical attention. I love this community approach to cat care.

Why are there so many cats in Istanbul?

The first cats were thought to have arrived on ships. Their roles as ship mouse catchers changed to city rodent control. Throughout history, cats have protected against rat-borne plagues and were and still are, seen as guardians.

They were kept in libraries and by scholars to prevent mice eating important documents. Many historic paintings depict Islamic scholars with cats sitting alongside them.

In Islam, cats are revered and are considered to be ritually clean. This means they are allowed inside mosques and peoples homes. The cats seem to take full advantage of their respected status.

It is well known that the Prophet Muhammad loved cats. There are a few famous tales. One of which tells of a cat that saved the Prophet from a venomous snake. Another is about the Prophet Muhammad’s favourite cat named Muezza.

One morning the Prophet awoke to the sound of the adhan (the call to prayer), but found Muezza fast asleep on his prayer robes. So rather than get up and disturb the cat, he cut the material from his prayer robe and allowed Muezza to continue sleeping.

Istanbul Street Cats

As a first-time visitor to Istanbul, I didn’t expect that wandering around the streets would be just as fun as visiting the historic sites and markets. Everywhere you go you are bound to meet a cat, or in some cases, a herd of cats.

Mall Cats and Shop Cats

Winter is Istanbul can be freezing. When we were there in December, it was around 5-10 degrees c (41- 50 degree f) during the day.

At first, when we were walking through a mall, we wondered what all the cardboard boxes were. We soon saw a few that were occupied and realised they were all little cat houses! It’s so nice that these cats had little sanctuaries all over town where they could escape the cold and have a cosy sleep.

We encountered many a shop cat on our travels through Istanbul. Some draped around pottery, or strategically positioned on a stack on paperwork, or perhaps in a comfy chair. These cats all knew where to find a spot to sleep and a free meal.

Famous Cats and the Hagia Sophia

A brief history lesson—The Hagia Sophia (pronounced Aya Sophia) is an impressive domed structure that was originally a Christian cathedral. It was built in 537AD by the Emperor Justinian I, and for 900 years was the centre for Orthodox Christianity for the Byzantine Empire in Constantinople (now called Istanbul).

In 1453, Constantinople fell to the Ottomans. Under the command of Sultan Mehmed, the Hagia Sophia became the Muslin centre for the Ottoman Empire, and remained that way for the next 500 years.

Due to this eclectic religious past, there are relics of history from both Muslim and Christian eras. The shimmering gold Byzantine mosaics are over 1000 years old, and as you meander up the uneven cobbled tunnels and stairwells, it feels like you have stepped into a mystical ancient palace. Then, of course, there are more cats.

And this is about cats, not a history lesson! So back to the most important feature of the Hagia Sophia—Gli the cat. Gli made her home in this famous building in 2004. She has lived there for sixteen years and has met thousands of humans, including a few famous ones.

Barack Obama and President Erdoğan of Turkey have both had the pleasure of making Gli’s acquaintance. Right now Gli is living away from the stress of crowds due to an illness in her own private room. I hope she gets better soon!

You can follow Gli on her own Instagram and Tumblr accounts.

In 2018 when we visited, the Hagia Sophia was open to the public as a museum. But in July 2020 it was announced that it would be opened once again as a Mosque for Muslin worship. However, just like the Blue Mosque across the road, you are still be able to visit.

"like all our mosques, the doors of Hagia Sophia will be wide open to locals and foreigners, Muslims and non-Muslims." -President Erdoğan

Since the announcement of reopening the Hagia Sophia for worship, there was concern for the cats that live there. But the public worries were put to rest after Presidential spokesman İbrahim Kalın, made a statement about Gli- "That cat has become very famous, and there are others who haven’t become that famous yet. That cat will be there, and all cats are welcome to our mosques."

Carpet Cats

We met this cheeky little kitten on a side street in Istanbul. The stone walls were lined with beautiful, richly coloured carpets for sale. A perfect playground for a naughty kitten. The carpet salesman didn’t seem concerned that this little crazy cat was running around and clawing its way up his lovely carpets.

Mama-cat sat on the street with another kitten at her side expertly ignoring the manic little ball of energy dangling from the carpets near her.

Souvenir Cats Istanbul

No, you can’t take a real cat home as a souvenir. But there are many cute, colourful decorations and ornamental cats you can take home to remember all the cats in Istanbul that you met.

Artistic Cats

Turkey is known for amazing mosaic art. Check out Topkapi Palace and the Hagia Sophia to see some mosaics that are incredibly detailed, colourful and on an unbelievable scale.

But you don’t just have to go to famous sites to appreciate Turkish art and culture. You can also buy amazing mosaic tiles, hand painted pottery, handicrafts, and magical lanterns all over Istanbul. The Grand Bazaar is a shopping experience not to be missed. And of course, many shops will be manned by a cat.

Garden Cats and Street Cats

Poke your head into a garden and you’ll probably spot a nesting cat. Or look up, you might spot one in a tree. Walk through a park and see how many cats you can spot!

Cafe and Restaurant Cats

I’ll admit, we were more inclined to pick a cafe or restaurant to eat in if it has a resident cat to lure us. In one outdoor cafe, a friendly cat curled up on the seat next to us and went to sleep expecting to be patted while we enjoyed some amazing Turkish coffee.

Summary

There are many wonderful things I will remember from my first visit to Istanbul. Even when it was freezing outside, or when we had been walking all day and desperately want to sit down, a cat would appear and boost my mood. I remember Istanbul as the Land of Cats and city that is like one giant cat cafe.

Check out the Cats of Istanbul website. They also have a Facebook and Instagram.

Istanbul Tips and Advice

ACCOMMODATION

Old City Sultanahmet area- Friends recommended we stay in the old city Sultanahmet area. There are so many boutique hotels in the area it is hard to pick! This is the one we stayed at and it was wonderful. It had amazing staff and an amazing breakfast buffet.

Hotel Amira Istanbul
Booking.com | Agoda | Google Map
Luxury stay in Istanbul- How about a stay in an Ottoman palace and live like royalty for a few days! The Four Seasons is a renovated 19th century Ottoman palace that overlooks the Bosphorus River. Further from the old city but probably worth it!